Art Nouveau
The Art Nouveau Movement was a relatively short period in jewellery history, lasting from 1895 to 1910. This movement was a reaction against the conservatism of the French Académie des Beaux-Arts, which had been very influential in 19th-century architecture and decorative art. Originating in Belgium and France, the movement's naturalistic designs soon influenced Europe and the United States, marking a significant departure from the traditional, heavier styles of the early 19th century.
Nature and its association with the female form were the keystones of the Art Nouveau movement, which embraced originality and creativity and aimed to provoke the imagination. Long, soft, flowing lines, femininity, asymmetry, insect, bird, and floral motifs characterised Art Nouveau jewels. Due to its relatively short duration, these items are rare and highly sought after.
The works of Oscar Massin and Japanese art greatly influenced the fantastical stylisations of the botanical world and flora & fauna in jewellery during the Art Nouveau period, using new ideals of skilled craftsmanship and traditional production methods.
The sinuous curves of botanical plants with trailing tendrils, exotic flowers, particularly orchids, lilies, and mistletoe, glistened with vibrant enamelled leaves. Insects were mounted with opal wings, and snakes, birds, and marine creatures were often cabochon gem-set and with iridescent enamels, taking on new life with their fluid shapes and movement.
The naked, soft female form and the woman's profile became synonymous with the fin de siècle style, with interpretations from medallists to circular pendants depicting women with draped gowns and long, flowing, often jewelled hair.
Free-flowing lines, sometimes called the "whiplash" line, suggested movement and were often an interpretation of the shapes and lines found in plants, a woman's hair, and feminine curves. In essence, the design of Art Nouveau was inspired by the waved and undulated forms found in nature.
Preferred for their artistic merit rather than their intrinsic value, unusual materials were often used, particularly moonstone, chalcedony, opal, chrysophase, agates, pearls and horn. Jewellery Houses such as Lalique, Vever, Fouquet & the American House Marcus & Co. re-introduced Pliqué-à-jour enamel and moulded pate de verre to complement their genius talents and technical prowess, bringing their jewels to life through colour and imaginative design.
Art Nouveau jewellers skillfully used these and other traditional materials, such as silver and gold, to create designs conveying dynamism and movement.
Art Nouveau Jewellery at Pragnell
As a sixth-generation family jeweller, Pragnell proudly presents a thoughtfully curated array of captivating and unique antique Art Nouveau jewellery. Our collection includes a stunning assortment of brooches, earrings, necklaces, rings, and bracelets from this dynamic era, crafted from lustrous gold, with diamonds, pearls, and intricate enamel work. Of particular note are the pieces by the renowned French artisan Gaston Lafitte, famous for their exceptional design and masterful craftsmanship.
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