The Edwardian Period
From 1901 to 1910, the Edwardian era marked a shift from the lengthy, sombre mourning that followed Prince Albert's death in 1861 to a period of vibrancy and glamour with the accession of King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra of Denmark. This popular royal couple captivated society with their fashionable attire and extravagant jewellery. The period was characterised by political stability, economic prosperity, and a surge in demand for exquisite jewellery.
The Edwardian era began in 1901 and coincided with the time known as ‘La Belle Époque’ 1871-1914, a period in French history that spread across Europe, Western Russia and America. This period was synonymous with renewed peace after the Franco-Prussian War, economic growth, prosperity, vast colonial empires, and technological advances. The future was optimistic and bright, and this helped establish an international high society in which fine jewellery was essential to the dress code.
Edwardian jewellery is known for its elaborate lace-like designs especially featuring platinum and diamonds but also colourful gemstones, all symbolising wealth and status. Pearls, vibrant green jade, captivating opals, and deep red rubies resulted in stunning creations. During this period, choker necklaces gained popularity, with Queen Alexandra setting the trend by wearing them to conceal a small scar on her neck.
Although the period is named after the British monarchy of the time, French fine jewellery houses such as Cartier played a significant part in influencing designs & trends in England, with Cartier London opening in 1902 largely due to the patronage of Edward VII. This famous French house was a leader in the introduction of platinum in jewellery making with its durability and lightness, which allowed for intricate and delicate craftsmanship to flourish with finer bands, delicate settings, and minimalist mounts capable of safely securing diamonds, permitting gems to reach their true potential.
The Edwardian period would become known for its copious use of filigree techniques. The jeweller layered fine threads of precious metals on the surface of the setting, resulting in an enchanting white, lacy effect. The millegrain setting was also perfected, giving the jewellery a softer and lighter look. These refined techniques perfectly complemented the attire of an elegant Edwardian High Society lady of the time, wearing silk, lace, and feathers. It further characterised many pieces of the era-garlands, ribbons, bows, tassels and swags were common motifs seen in brooches, rings, pendants and tiaras and were worn with a new lightness. Fingers adorned with crossover or ‘toi et moi’ rings featuring two focal gems were popular for ladies, while men wore signet rings and gypsy rings set with diamonds and rubies. The fashion was for rings to be stacked on every finger. A novelty compared with the heavier Georgian closed-back settings, so rings were now set in an open and airy manner, allowing light to flood through each gem.
The changing neckline of women’s attire meant a new focus was placed on necklaces, chains, and sautoirs. Pendants were often asymmetrical, a style known as négligée. Sautoirs featured platinum links, set with spectacle-set diamonds and pearls. Earrings were long, pendant styles and featured openwork lace punctuated with diamonds, while bracelets became tapered and delicate with repeated motifs.
Large diamonds sourced from South African mines were rare and coveted additions to jewellery. The introduction of new cuts, such as the baguette cut, coupled with the classic old European cuts, which paved the way for the modern brilliant cut, added to their allure. While high-quality coloured stones were occasionally used, the demand was primarily for diamonds and pearls, with pearls especially cherished for their understated elegance, further enhancing their desirability.
Edwardian Jewellery at Pragnell
At Pragnell, we take pride in our heritage as a sixth-generation family jeweller. We specialise in offering a thoughtfully curated collection of unique and captivating Edwardian jewellery that reflects the opulence of this era.
Our ever-evolving selection includes meticulously chosen pieces of exquisite antique Edwardian jewellery, such as pendant necklaces and opal, diamond, and ruby rings. With their exceptional quality and timeless design, these pieces are not just historical artefacts but also contemporary fashion statements, making them just as wearable today as they were in the early 1900s.
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